 | |
| Formation | 1 January 1988 |
|---|---|
| Type | 501(c)3 non-profit sports federation |
| Headquarters | Salt Lake City, Utah, United States |
Membership | IFSC |
President | Kate Felsen Di Pietro |
CEO | Marc Norman |
| Website | USA Climbing |
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States.[1] As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
USA Climbing receives sanctioning and is recognized by the following organizations:[1] the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC),[2] the International Olympic Committee (IOC),[3] and the United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee.[4][1]
Competition history
Below is a brief timeline of American competition climbing history:[5]
- 1988 & 1989 – Stand-alone World Cup events at Snowbird, Utah, were organized by UIAA and the American Alpine Club.[6]
- 1994 – Junior National Championship organized by the American Sport Climbers Federation (ASCF) is created.
- 1998 – The ASCF became the Junior Competition Climbing Association (JCCA).
- 2002 – The JCCA expanded to include adult competitors and changed its name again to the United States Competition Climbing Association (USCCA).
- 2003 – USCCA decided to rename the organization to what it is called today, USA Climbing (USAC).
- 2004 – USAC took over operations of the American Bouldering Series (ABS).
Competition structure
Elite
Any eligible climber aged 16 and older that meets the USAC qualification criteria may compete at Elite Nationals. There are no Regional or Divisional competitions for Elite competitors. The winners in each gender/event (Lead, Speed and Bouldering) at Elite Nationals are considered the National Champions of the United States. The only caveat is that a foreign national cannot be the National Champion of the US. If a foreign national wins any gender/event the next highest placed citizen of the US in that gender/event is the National Champion.
Youth
Youth climbers are subdivided into 5 age groups:
- Junior (18-19 years old)
- Youth A (16-17 years old)
- Youth B (14-15 years old)
- Youth C (12-13 years old)
- Youth D (≤11 years old)
The US is subdivided into 8 Divisions and 16 Regions.[7] Anyone may compete in local competitions. USA Climbing members, who have attended at least two local competitions, may compete at their respective Regional Championships.[8] The top 10 competitors in each gender/category at Regionals receive an invitation to compete at their respective Divisional Championships. The top 6 competitors in each gender/category at the Divisional Championships receive an invitation to compete at the National Championships.[7] The top four climbers in each gender/category/event at the National Championships are considered to be the U.S. Youth National Team. Youth on the National Teams for Junior, A and B are eligible to compete at the Youth Pan American and Youth World Championships.
Collegiate
Provides access for undergraduate or graduate students that are currently enrolled at a college or university to compete in bouldering, lead and speed climbing.[9]
Adaptive
Adaptive provides access for athletes with physical disabilities to compete in both bouldering and lead/top rope climbing.[10]
Categories included in Adaptive are open to those with physical disabilities: Neurological / Physical Disability, Visual Impairment, Upper Extremity Amputee, Lower Extremity, Amputee, Seated, Youth.[10]
Elite bouldering
The following are the results for bouldering at Elite National Championship level.[11]
Male
Female
Elite lead
The following are the results for lead at Elite National Championship level[11]
Male
Female
Elite speed
Starting with the 2021 Speed National Championships, the US competition format was changed to match the IFSC speed climbing competition format. Prior to 2021, US Speed Climbing National Champions (and final ranking placements) were determined by the fastest climber to finish the speed route. As of 2021, US Speed National Champions were determined by the winners of the IFSC knockout format.
Male
Female
Current US speed climbing records
Beginning in 2023 USA Climbing established the same criteria as Elite to officially recognize Speed climbing records for the Youth age group categories. One criterion is that an officially recognized electronic timing system must be used. Historically, youth records were kept for developmental purposes since no official standards were utilized. Official Youth speed climbing records can only be set at USAC Youth Qualifying Events, USAC Youth Regional Championships, USAC Youth Divisional Championships, USAC Youth National Championships, IFSC Youth Pan American Championships, and IFSC Youth World Championships, and other USAC or IFSC sanctioned events in which youth age groups are contested. No records are kept for youth age groups C and D since the speed climbing routes are different at every competition.
| Men's | 15 meter | 10 meter | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Time (seconds) | Athlete | Time (seconds) | Athlete | |
| Elite | 4.74 | Sam Watson[51] | 3.95 | John Brosler[47] |
| Junior | 5.75 | Logan Minor [52] | 4.03 | Noah Bratschi[53] |
| Youth A | 5.32 | Zach Hammer [54] | 4.34 | John Brosler[55] |
| Youth B | 6.18 | Sam Watson[56] | 5.03 | Michael Retoff[57] |
| Women's | 15 meter | 10 meter | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Time (seconds) | Athlete | Time (seconds) | Athlete | |
| Elite | 6.38 | Emma Hunt[58] | 5.64 | Claire Buhrfeind |
| Junior | 7.55 | Emma Hunt[56] | 5.80 | Piper Kelly[53] |
| Youth A | 7.84 | Sophia Curcio[59] | 5.88 | Grace McKeehan[60] |
| Youth B | 7.96 | Jojo Chi [54] | 6.33 | Sidney Trinidad[61] |
History of the US speed climbing record
Beginning in 2019, USA Climbing established specific criteria for setting official National Records in the Elite Speed Climbing category. As such, the National Records below for the Elite category have been officially recognized by USA Climbing.
| Date | Time (s) | Athlete | Location | Competition |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| April 28, 2023 | 5.02[62] | Sam Watson | Seoul, South Korea | 2023 IFSC World Cup |
| May 20, 2022 | 5.20[63] | John Brosler | Salt Lake City, Utah | 2022 IFSC World Cup |
| May 28, 2021 | 5.60[64] | John Brosler | Salt Lake City, Utah | 2021 IFSC World Cup |
| March 28, 2021 | 5.62[62] | John Brosler | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 28, 2021 | 5.85[62] | Noah Bratschi | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| January 20, 2019 | 5.99[65] | John Brosler | Salt Lake City, Utah | USA Climbing Combined Invitational |
| Date | Time (s) | Athlete | Location | Competition |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| August 10, 2023 | 6.67 [66] | Emma Hunt | Bern, Switzerland | 2023 IFSC World Championships |
| July 2, 2023 | 6.68[67] | Emma Hunt | Villars, Switzerland | 2023 IFSC World Cup |
| May 7, 2023 | 6.79[68] | Emma Hunt | Jakarta, Indonesia | 2023 IFSC World Cup |
| April 28, 2023 | 6.82[69] | Emma Hunt | Seoul, Korea | 2023 IFSC World Cup |
| Sept 10, 2022 | 6.84[70] | Emma Hunt | Edinburgh, Scotland | 2022 IFSC World Cup |
| July 2, 2021 | 7.19[71] | Emma Hunt | Villars, Switzerland | 2021 IFSC World Cup |
| July 2, 2021 | 7.43[71] | Emma Hunt | Villars, Switzerland | 2021 IFSC World Cup |
| May 28, 2021 | 7.52[72] | Emma Hunt | Salt Lake City, Utah | 2021 IFSC World Cup |
| March 29, 2021 | 7.56[62] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 29, 2021 | 7.76[62] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 29, 2021 | 7.95[62] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 28, 2021 | 8.04[62] | Emma Hunt | Memphis, Tennessee | USA Climbing Team Trials Invitational |
| March 1, 2020 | 8.05[73] | Emma Hunt | Los Angeles, California | IFSC Pan American Championships |
Elite team (current)
The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events.[74]
- Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men
- Colin Duffy
- Sean Bailey
- Nathaniel Coleman
- Zach Galla
- Jesse Grupper
- Dillon Countryman
- Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women
- Natalia Grossman
- Brooke Raboutou
- Cloe Coscoy
- Kylie Cullen
- Anastasia Sanders
- Adriene Clark
- Bouldering National Team – Men
- Colin Duffy
- Sean Bailey
- Dillon Countryman
- Ross Fulkerson
- Luke Muehring
- Bouldering National Team – Women
- Natalia Grossman
- Brooke Raboutou
- Cloe Coscoy
- Anastasia Sanders
- Kylie Cullen
- Speed National Team – Men
- Noah Bratschi
- John Brosler
- Sam Watson
- Merritt Ernsberger
- Zach Hammer
- Darren Skolnik
- Quinn O'francia
- Speed National Team – Women
- Callie Close
- Emma Hunt
- Piper Kelly
- Olivia Ma
- Liberty Runnels
- Sophia Curcio
- Lead National Team – Men
- Colin Duffy
- Jesse Grupper
- Sean Bailey
- Hugo Hoyer
- Luke Muehring
- Lead National Team – Women
- Natalia Grossman
- Brooke Raboutou
- Anastasia Sanders
- Kyra Condie
- Quinn Mason
Elite team (historical)
2022 - The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events in 2022.[74]
- Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men
- Sean Bailey
- Nathaniel Coleman
- Colin Duffy
- Ben Hanna
- Jesse Grupper
- Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women
- Melina Costanza
- Kylie Cullen
- Natalia Grossman
- Quinn Mason
- Brooke Raboutou
- Bouldering National Team – Men
- Sean Bailey
- Nathaniel Coleman
- Colin Duffy
- Zach Galla
- Ben Hanna
- Bouldering National Team – Women
- Melina Costanza
- Kylie Cullen
- Natalia Grossman
- Maya Madere
- Brooke Raboutou
- Lead National Team – Men
- Sean Bailey
- Nathaniel Coleman
- Colin Duffy
- Ross Fulkerson
- Jesse Grupper
- Lead National Team – Women
- Kyra Condie
- Melina Costanza
- Natalia Grossman
- Quinn Mason
- Brooke Raboutou
- Speed National Team – Men
- Noah Bratschi
- John Brosler
- Merritt Ernsberger
- Joe Goodacre
- Sam Watson
- Speed National Team – Women
- Callie Close
- Emma Hunt
- Piper Kelly
- Olivia Ma
- Liberty Runnels
2021 - The athletes who represented the United States at International competition events in 2021.[75]
- Men's Lead Team
- Sean Bailey
- Nathaniel Coleman
- Colin Duffy
- Timothy Kang
- Ellis Ernsberger
- Men's Speed Team
- Merritt Ernsberger
- John Brosler
- Noah Bratschi
- Nathaniel Coleman
- Colin Duffy
- Men's Bouldering Team
- Nathaniel Coleman
- Ross Fulkerson
- Colin Duffy
- Ben Hanna
- John Brock
- Women's Lead Team
- Women's Speed Team
- Emma Hunt
- Kyra Condie
- Julia Duffy
- Callie Close
- Brooke Raboutou
- Women's Bouldering Team
- Natalia Grossman
- Kyra Condie
- Brooke Raboutou
- Kylie Cullen
- Campbell Sarinopoulos
Youth bouldering
Male Junior
Female Junior
Male Youth A
Female Youth A
Male Youth B
Female Youth B
Male Youth C
Female Youth C
Male Youth D
Female Youth D
Youth lead
Male Junior
Female Junior
Male Youth A
Female Youth A
Male Youth B
Female Youth B
Male Youth C
Female Youth C
Male Youth D
Female Youth D
Youth speed
Male Junior
| Year | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2013[57] | Thomas Pitzel | Ryan Strickland | Josh Levin |
| 2014[97] | Thomas Pitzel | Dominic Labarge | Jacob Wilbur |
| 2015[98] | John Brosler | Brendan Mitchell | Kirby Coggins |
| 2016 | John Brosler | Ben Hammer | Luke Muehring |
| 2017 | Max Hammer | Michael Finn-Henry | Luke Muehring |
| 2018 | Noah Bratschi | Michael Finn-Henry | Max Hammer |
| 2019 | Joe Goodacre | Noah Bratschi | Nicholas Montella |
| 2020 | Not held | n/a | n/a |
| 2021[76] | Vincent Lee | Darren Skolnik | Micah Liss |
| 2022[77] | Zachary Palmer | Micah Liss | Ben Jennings |
| 2023[78] | Ben Jennings | Micah Feller | Silas Chang |
Female Junior
Male Youth A
Female Youth A
Male Youth B
Female Youth B
Male Youth C
Female Youth C
Male Youth D
Female Youth D
See also
- International Federation of Sport Climbing
- IFSC Climbing World Cup
- IFSC Climbing World Championships
- IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships
References
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External links
- "Home Page". usaclimbing.org. Retrieved 1 August 2018.
