The highest unclimbed mountain in a particular region or in the world is often a matter of controversy. In some parts of the world surveying and mapping are still not reliable, and there are not comprehensive records of the routes of explorers, mountaineers and local inhabitants.

However, a major problem relates to the definition of a mountain. Any particular mountain, in addition to its highest point, will also have subsidiary "tops." Generally, a subjective view is taken of what is a mountain and what is a top. The horizontal distance between main peak and top, the difference in height, the topographic prominence of the top, as well as the general topography, all come into consideration. Although objective criteria have been proposed for distinguishing "peaks" from "tops" (a prominence of 610 m, 2,000 feet is one definition), there is no widely agreed standard.

The Peakware World Mountain Encyclopedia has a list of unclimbed 7000 m Himalayan peaks which includes tops.^[1] The list is somewhat out-of-date and is generally unreliable: for example Lhotse Middle, 8430 m, was first climbed in spring 2001. The information came from the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA), which also provides a list of first ascents on its website.^[2]

The mountain most widely claimed to be the highest unclimbed mountain in the world in terms of elevation seems to be Gangkhar Puensum, 7570 m (24,836 feet). It is in Bhutan, on or near the border with Tibet. In Bhutan, climbing of high mountains has been prohibited since 1994.

Since Gangkhar Puensum is off limits to climbing, a natural question is "What is the highest unclimbed non-prohibited mountain?" The answer to this is also doubtful and depends greatly on the prominence cutoff. Saser Kangri II East (7,513 m, Prom=1,450 m) is a strong candidate, but access to the peak is difficult, since it lies near the disputed India/Pakistan border in Kashmir. Labuche Kang III/East (7250 m?, Prom=570 m?), near Cho Oyu, is reportedly unclimbed, but its status is hard to verify. It also lacks significant prominence.

Vorlage:Reflist

• UIAA (use Activities, Expedition, Greater Ranges for First Ascents)
• Peakware World Mountain Encyclopedia
• List of peaks by prominence
• List of highest mountains

1. ↑ Simon Perritaz: Highest Unclimbed Peaks. Peakware World Mountain Encyclopedia, abgerufen am 26. November 2007. 
2. ↑ Lists of first ascents (through 2002). Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA), abgerufen am 26. November 2007.  Fehler beim Aufruf der Vorlage:Cite web: Bei Nachname Autor wurde Parameter und Alias bzw. mehrere Aliase angegeben.